Who is she? Mary Ellen Pleasant or Queen Emma?

For Kānaka ʻOiwi, our Aliʻi are so important. They symbolize us as a people, and the generations who forged the path on which we walk.

As Native Hawaiians, our kingdom was stolen, our lands reallocated under colonialist laws, blood quantum requirements were enacted by the American Congress to try and assure that we do not survive as a people for many more generations. Because of land mismanagement and invasive species introduction, many scientists have called us the endangered species capital of the world.

To add insult to injury, people can’t even let us keep the images of our beloved Queen who strove to do so much for her people. Emalani sold her personal jewels and hit up her friends to do the same to build the Queen’s Hospital so that Hawaiians could have proper health care.

And people can’t even let us have her image without appropriating it and giving it to someone else! Honestly, it is hurtful on a personal AND A CULTURAL level.

Below is one of the images often misrepresented as Mary Ellen Pleasant (August 19, 1814 – January 11, 1904), a Black entrepreneur who lived many years in San Francisco. It does a disservice to BOTH women to steal Emalani’s image and use it for Mrs. Pleasant. Mrs. Pleasant does not need to be represented by a Hawaiian. And Queen Emma is OUR beloved Emalani, not a San Francisco businesswoman. Please respect BOTH women and stop using Emalani’s image to represent Mrs. Pleasant, and please speak up when you see others do so.

One of the images claimed to be Mary Ellen Pleasant. It is heavily documented as being an image of Dowager Queen Emma of Hawaiʻi.

The below standing portrait was made based on a photograph taken after August of 1862. We know this because the original photo has the christening cup of her son, Albert Edward Kauikeaouli Leiopapa a Kamehameha. The cup was a gift from Queen Victoria. Tragically, the little prince died on August 27, shortly before the cup arrived. I expect it was a mourning photo and that there is symbolism to the flowers.

The photo may even be after the death of her husband, Alekanetero ʻIolani Kalanikualiholiho Maka o ʻIouli Kūnuiākea o Kūkāʻilimoku, whom she lost a little over a year later, November 30, 1863.

For more images of Queen Emma which have been misidentified as Mary Ellen Pleasant, visit this web page.

ʻWhat did Queen Emma of Hawaiʻi look like?

ʻ Emalani in Pictures – A work in progress

Here I am sorting my digital collection of ʻEmalani images, trying to arrange them chronologically, to find provenance of them all, and to start including a little history.

With Dr. & Mrs. Rooke. Original photo at the Bishop Museum.
https://digitalarchives.hawaii.gov/item/ark:70111/1z99

Emma and Alexander Liholiho were married on June 19, 1856
Alekanetero ʻIolani Kalanikualiholiho Maka o ʻIouli Kūnuiākea o Kūkāʻilimoku (Kamehameha IV)
and
Queen Emma Kalanikaumakaʻamano Kaleleonālani Naʻea Rooke 

1862 image by Henry L Chase , Front Street, Honolulu

1865

Photograph by Camille Silvy, London
Studio at 38 Porcester Terrace
London
Carte-de-visite depicting a full-length portrait of Emma Kalanikaumakaʻamano Kaleleonālani Naʻea Rooke, then Queen Dowager of the Kingdom of Hawaii. She is standing and faces three-quarters left. Her hands are together in front of her, left hand over right. She is wearing a Western style dress, with a light coloured headdress and a veil. On the left of the photograph stands a table with books on it. A curtain is hanging behind the table.
Provenance: From an album of ‘Royal Portraits’ compiled by Queen Victoria
Royal Collection Trust

1866

Emma Gardener collection (?) dated 1865, however Queen Emma did not arrive in New York until 1866

After her European tour, Queen Emma arrived in New York in August of 1866. This image is on paper produced by Edward and Henry T. Anthony & Co

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Queen_Emma_of_Hawaii,c._1859%28colored%29.jpg

After her European tour, Queen Emma arrived in New York in August of 1866. This image was published by Edward and Henry T. Anthony & Co
Identified as a Henry L. Chase image.

Carte de Visite by Bradley and Rutholfson, San Francisco, October 1866.
This is the image most commonly mis-identified as Mary Ellen Pleasant, due to it being used by Helen Holdredge in her book on Mrs. Pleasant.

Carte de visite of Queen Emma which has been altered and identified as Mary Ellen Pleasant.
What I think is especially charming about how she signed this carte de visite: “On sea,” which is how we would say it in Hawaiian. She then corrected it to “at sea,” the English phrasing.
USS Vanderbilt

186?

Although this image is sometimes identified as the wedding of ʻEmalani and Liholiho, Kamehameha IV, it is not. The image is a montage of several members of the Hawaiian royalty based on their photos. While many of their lifetimes did overlap, this is not an accurate representation of a specific moment in time. The image of ʻEmalani is based on a photo of her wearing widow’s weeds, therefore the image of her is post-1863, the year her husband died. In it, she is wearing the same gown as in the carte de visite below. The images must, therefore, be at least a year prior to 1870.

1871

1871
by Henry L. Chase
https://digitalarchives.hawaii.gov/item/ark:70111/1z8N

1880

ʻEmalani was a renowned horsewoman. In this image she is wearing an English-style riding habit accented in the inimitable Hawaiian style.
1880
https://digitalarchives.hawaii.gov/item/ark:70111/1Dw0

This stately image was made by Andreas Avelino Montano, a Colombian from California. He came to Hawaii and was active from 1876 to 1883 as a photographer and portrait painters for Queen Emma and other fashionable aliis. He had a skill for portraying Hawaiian women. His studio at 87 Fort Street in Honolulu became known as Hale Paʻikiʻi (photographer house). He tutored the painter Charles Furneaux. He married Mary Jane Fayerweather, a quarter Hawaiian and three quarter Caucasian woman, sister of Julia Fayerweather Afong, and widow of Benoni R. Davidson. Although she was five years his senior they had four children: Emma, Rose, Maggie and Harry. He later retired photography and became a rancher.

1883

https://jenikirbyhistory.getarchive.net/amp/media/queen-emma-of-hawaii-photograph-by-h-l-chase-pp-96-4-008-174482

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Henry_L._Chase

https://www.alexautographs.com/auction-lot/queen-emma-of-hawaii-s-annotated-photograph-album_6567D96713

https://www.rrauction.com/auctions/lot-detail/345998106526136-queen-emma-of-hawaii-signed-photograph/?cat=322

Liliʻuokalani at Kīlauea

USGS image

No, Liliʻuokalani did not start the custom of tossing gin into Kīlauea. That was Mr. George Lycurgus, some years later. Following is a description of her visit to Kīlauea in 1800, when she was still Princess, extracted from her autobiography, Hawaiʻi’s Story by Hawaiʻi’s Queen.

Chapter XI
Mauna Loa

IN the year 1880 Miss Helen Aldrich of Berkeley, Cal., made me a visit. She was the daughter of Mr. W. A. Aldrich, a banker, who had married a first cousin of my husband, Elizabeth, the child of Mr. R. W. Holt. Shortly after her arrival we took a trip to the largest of our islands, Hawaii, on which is situated that volcano called with truth one of the greatest natural wonders of the modern world.

I was attended by my retainers, and after a short and pleasant voyage we arrived at the port and chief city, Hilo. As though to illuminate in honor of my visit, on the night preceding our ascent of the mountain a bright glow was seen on the top of Mokuaweoweo. This was the portent which preceded that great flow of lava which soon commenced from Mauna Loa, and took its course down the sides of that mountain towards the city of Hilo. We were thus witnesses from the very beginning of one of the most extensive and long-continued eruptions which has ever been recorded in history, for it was protracted over a period of eleven months.

Early on the morning following we started on horseback on our journey to the crater of Kilauea, where we arrived about five o’clock the same evening. This is not, as some strangers suppose, a mountain by itself, totally distinct from the general volcanic system of Mauna Loa. That word in our language signifies the great long mountain, and the nature of the elevation well deserves the term; for in height, 13,700 feet, it is exceeded by few in the world, while in extent it includes about one-third of our largest island.

The eruptions are not usually from the summit, but generally through fissures in its sides. One of these is the crater lake of Kilauea, a region of perpetual fire, of an activity more or less pronounced, yet never entirely extinct, and situated some twenty miles or so east from the summit, at an elevation of about four thousand feet. It is one of the few, if not the only one, of the volcanoes in the world which can be visited at the periods of its greatest displays without the least danger to the observer; because it is always possible to watch its bubbling fires from a higher point than their source. It is not the lava from the burning lake which makes its way down the mountain, but that from other places where the concealed fires of Mauna Loa burst forth.

There is now a modern hotel at a spot commanding a good view of the points of interest; but at the date of this visit we were received and made very comfortable in a large grass house with thatched roof, under which some forty persons could have been accommodated. Here we were most hospitably received, our tired horses were cared for and sheltered near to our resting-place, and we did ample justice to the evening meal which had been provided for our company.

After our refreshment, darkness quickly succeeded the setting of the sun (there being no long twilight, as in more northern climates); so we spent the evening in watching the fiery glow in the crater, the brilliance of which seemed to be spreading along the level floor of the pit. From a flooring of light and heat the surface changed at times to billows of actual fire; then jets burst up or fountains played high in air, standing by themselves a moment like burning columns; then steam intervened to stifle the flames. Mist following this, the crater was for a while hidden from our sight, and nature’s gorgeous fireworks suspended.

At one of these intervals we retired for the night; but at two o’clock we were all awakened by our host to see an exhibition such as has seldom been furnished for the inspection of any of the many tourists who visit that region. This was a most brilliant illumination at the summit of Mauna Loa itself; and far from lessening, its manifestation seemed to render more vivid, the fires of the crater of Kilauea. The mists had cleared away in that direction, and we thus had the good fortune to watch on one and the same occasion the outbursts of light at the summit and the jets of dancing flame in the sides. It was a night never to be forgotten by any of our party, and well worth the time and labor of the journey, were there no more to be enjoyed. That which was nearest to us, the rising, boiling sheet of liquid fire, seemed to show no abatement by reason of the vent at the mountain-top, but in its agitations disclosed each moment sights more and more wonderful to our gaze.

The next day was spent by our party in descending the crater to the very limits of its seething fires, but I remained at the hotel. They were all provided with some offerings to Pele, the ancient goddess of fire, reverenced by the Hawaiian people. This custom is almost universal, even to the present day. Those born in foreign lands, tourists who scarcely know our ancient history, generally take with them to the brink of the lake some coin or other trinket which, for good luck, as the saying is, they cast into the lava. Our people, the native Hawaiians, have no money to throw away on such souvenirs of the past; but they carry wreaths of the pandanus flower, leis, made like those seen aboard the steamers at the departure of friends, necklaces, and garlands of nature’s ornaments, which are tossed by them into the angry waves of the basin.

As I have mentioned this incident, my thoughts have gone back to that paragraph wherein I wrote of the overthrow of the superstitious fears of the fire-goddess through the brave acts of my aunt, Queen Kapiolani, when she defied the power of the elements at this very spot.

So, to prevent misunderstanding now, perhaps it would be well to notice that this propitiation of the volcano’s wrath is now but a harmless sport, not by any means an act of worship, very much like the custom of hurling old shoes at the bride’s carriage, or sending off the newly wedded couple with showers of rice; usages which form a pleasant diversion in the most highly cultivated and educated communities.

After a day spent in watching the activity of the crater, the party returned to our hotel, weary, hungry, and ready to enjoy the refreshment and repose of which they were in need. One night more was spent at the volcano house of the olden time, and then we all started on our ride down the mountain for the city of Hilo.

The display had not diminished in extent nor in its strange, wild beauty. The lake in the crater was still boiling, and over Mokuaweoweo the location of the opening was easily distinguished by the brilliant glow of light. But turning our backs on these natural wonders, nature was perhaps more lovely in the charms by which she lined our pathway towards the sea; for this road is justly considered to be one of the most beautiful exhibitions of the scenery of the tropics in Hawaii, and our cavalcade passed between lines of verdure or flowers enchanting to the eye and fragrant to the sense; there were the bright blossoms of the lehua, both yellow and red varieties, and other plants or trees shading and pleasing each of us as we advanced. Although we did not arrive at our destination until about five that afternoon, and were quite fatigued with our long ride, yet it had been an excursion of great enjoyment, and I am sure no one of the company was other than satisfied with it.

The great increase in the lava flow which subsequently took place had not at this time threatened the peace of the city; so our return to our friends was made the signal for a round of social pleasures. A grand entertainment in honor of the visit of the heir to the throne was given by Mr. and Mrs. Luther Severance; and it afforded me much satisfaction to show to my California cousin some examples of the generous style of the hospitality of those days, in which those of foreign or of native birth vied with each other in a friendly rivalry of good things.

Judge F. S. Lyman was then lieutenant-governor of the island, and with his amiable wife showed us all the attention in his power; then there were Judge Akao and his wife, Mr. and Mrs. Governor Kipi and their agreeable family. The family of Mr. D. H. Hitchcock, especially his wife and daughters, were also most kind and attentive to me and those who accompanied me.

If, in these reminiscences, I should fail to name those who have made such occasions pleasant, it must be accepted simply as an unintentional omission, the names I have given being but examples of that universal kindness received by me from all. Just as we were leaving our kind entertainers, Sir Thomas Hesketh arrived in the port on his own yacht for a visit to the island; he was accompanied by Hon. Samuel Parker, whom he had invited to be his guest during this excursion.

The regular steamer of passenger service between Hilo and Honolulu received me and my company for our return to Oahu, where we arrived in safety; and not long after my cousin, Miss Aldrich, took her departure for her home, with, I am sure, some very pleasant memories of the natural beauties and social pleasures of life on the Hawaiian Islands.

Hawaiʻi’s Story by Hawaiʻi’s Queen

Three Hills of Hilo

These three puʻu, in legend and in fact, were/are an important part of the hydrology of Hilo. The puʻu are sponges which absorb water all rainy season and slowly release it into the underground streams during the dry season. They are/were on the border between the ahupuaʻa of Punahoa and Piʻihonua.

Our kūpuna knew their importance, it is essential knowledge encoded in the legends.

Hinakuluʻua, a rain goddess, is the personification of the Piʻihonua weather system which begins in the venturi between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa and ends near Lyman House.

Hinaikeahi, a fire goddess, created the springs in the intricate lava tube, freshwater spring, and micro-spring system which begins in the hills and continues out into Hilo Bay. In the full version of the moʻolelo, each of the major springs she created is named. Here is Westervelt’s version of the story, in Peter Young’s blog.

These two akua, or elementals, figure in the moʻolelo of their sister/mother Hina of Waiʻanuenue and her courtship by the moʻo Kuna. You can see encoded into this story important information about the dangers of the river.

Since Peʻa and Honu were dismantled, it has changed the vitality of the springs, and the ecosystems which depended on them.

1929 image illustrating landscape of Hilo, Hawaiʻi
This photograph of Puʻu Hālaʻi, Puʻu Honu, and Puʻu Peʻa was taken by Florence DeMello Dias about 1929. Puʻu Peʻa (far right) was excavated in the 1930s to build the roadways of Hilo. The remnants of Puʻu Honu (center) continue to be excavated for development. Puʻu Hālaʻi was built over by homes, which preserved it from most excavation. The mauka (right-hand) slope seen in the photograph was excavated to build the current medical center. The image is taken from above the turn-off to the old Hilo Hospital.

The Floodplain of Hilo

Aloha no! I would like to share a little history of Hilo’s soccer field area, as I learned it from my kūpuna and some others who have researched it:
 
Back when Paiʻea Kamehameha was building his Peleleu Fleet, the beach went all the way back to the canal. This is why this part of Hilo, from the Wailuku to the Wailoa, is named Hilo One, “Sandy Hilo.” Behind the beach, and throughout the area where Wailoa Park is now, were lush taro fields, as well as fish ponds.
 
The entire area between the Wailuku and Wailoa are Hilo’s natural floodplain. Waiākea is also part of this natural floodplain, as you can see by the name, “Broad Water.”
 
From Hilo One to mauka, and crossing where Komohana Street is now, were Haili Forest and Mokaulele Forest. The remnants of Mokaulele are above the ʻImiloa Astronomy Center.
 
This forest created a natural sponge which helped to absorb the famous rains of Hilo. Many ancient chants describe the heavy rainfall of Hilo, and how it fills the waterways and tears at the edges of the shore.
 
Paiʻea Kamehameha logged huge swaths of the forest surrounding Hilo One to build the Peleleu Fleet.
 
Later, more of the forest was logged to build Hilo Town. Haili Church is named for the forest that its lumber came from.
 
Later, when Sugar was King, railroad tracks were built on the beach. A berm was created to protect the railway.
 
Over the years, communities grew up along the railway and in the Wailoa Park area (most famouly, Shinmachi). Roadways were installed, in addition to the railways.
 
The communities were destroyed by the tsunamis of 1946 and 1960.
 
After 1960, the devastated areas were made into parks so that people could not rebuild there and suffer such losses again.
 
The Kaikoʻo area was created with fill, to elevate governmental and commercial areas above the worst of the tsunami’s reach.
 
By then, Hilo had grown so much there was no place to put a replacement for a major road to serve the makai areas, so the bay front road would have to remain, and because it is so close to sea level, it would have to be protected by a berm. Still, when the sea is rough, the road must be closed.
 
I often hear people say that the berm needs to be cut through and opened up to allow the water on the so-called “soccer field” to drain into the bay. The problem with that idea is that the “soccer field” is only 10 feet above sea level. If that berm were removed, there would be little difference between the floodplain and the bay. Rough seas would use the entire area for a beach. 
 
Yes, there was poor planning, but the poor planning was done in the 1800s. The city should not have been developed makai of what is now Kinoʻole St. All of that area is part of the natural floodplain. But what is done, is done, and the current situation is the best possible solution taking into account the various needs of Hilo. 
 
In 1994, plans were made to mitigate the problems through the Alenaio Stream Flood Control Project. Draining the water into the remains of the floodplain keeps it out of the rest of Hilo, and allows it to slowly seep away, rather than “bite the shore like an angry dog,” as the old chants describe.
 
Rather than be angry that the soccer field and park get flooded, I think we should be happy that enough of the floodplain was opened up to provide for much of the storm waters, and when it is not storming, we have a wonderful soccer field and park to use.
 
Just my manaʻo. If I have made any errors, please give me links and documentation, as I am passionate about the history of our town, and always seeking to learn more!
 

Malama pono!

Mahalo to Baron Sekia for the info about the Alenaio Stream project.

For some amazing photos, check out Extreme Exposure’s Facebook page.

Hilo and Kamehameha

By Leilehua Yuen, copyright October 2015, Hilo, Hawai`i

Early Life and Battles of Pai`ea Kamehameha

Pai`ea was born around the year 1758 at Kokoiki, Kohala, Moku O Keawe. Immediately after his birth, he was taken to Waipi`o to be reared until he matured enough for training as a warrior. Due to political considerations which placed his life at risk, he was reared as a solitary child, and thus given the sobriquet Kamehameha, “The Lonely One.”

Although the inculcation of Western literature into Hawaiian schools has made common the names “King Kamehameha” and “Kamehameha the Great,” he is more correctly called “Pai`ea Kamehameha.”

When referring to him as the founder of the Kamehameha Dynasty, he is called Kamehameha I. “Kamehameha Nui” is the name of the ruler of Maui, Lani, and Moloka`i who lived two generations before Pai`ea Kamehameha. In genealogies of Ka`ū, Puna, and Hilo people, he is sometimes called “Kamehameha the Conqueror.”

Upon reaching his teens, Pai`ea Kamehameha was sent to the district of Ka`ū to train as a koa (warrior). He swiftly proved his skill in battle, strategy, and diplomatic negotiations and rose through the ranks to become a well-respected battle chief for his uncle, Kalaniopu`u, the ruling ali`i of Kona, Kohala, and Ka`ū. In 1779 Pai`ea was one of the court members who met with Capt. James Cook onboard the Discovery at Kealakekua. Being an astute tactician, he immediately recognized the usefulness of the European weaponry.

Pai`ea Kamehameha was reared and trained to become the military leader for his cousin Kiwalaō, heir of Kalaniopu`u. In 1781, on the death of Kalaniopu`u, Kiawala’o inherited rulership of the leeward portions of the island of Hawai`i. However, although Pai`ea Kamehameha was of lower rank, and only a nephew of the late king, he had inherited custodianship of the war god.

Pai`ea Kamehameha soon began to challenge Kiwalaōʻs authority. During the funeral for one of Kalani’opu’u’s chiefs, Kamehameha stepped in and performed one of the rituals specifically reserved for Kiwala’ō. This was an insulting act, foreshadowing open rebellion.

In 1782 Pa`ea Kamehamehaʻs and Kiwalaōʻs forces met in battle at Mokuōhai. Kiwalaō was killed. Among Kiwalaōʻs relatives who escaped was an uncle, Keawemauhili (half-brother of Kalaniopu`u, the deceased chief), who was married to the Ali`i Nui of Hilo. Escaping with his life, he returned to Hilo.

Over the next several years Pai`ea Kamehameha instigated and responded to many battles to expand and consolidate his territory. He captured the daughter of Kiwalaō, Keōpūolani, and married her. As the highest ranking woman in the southern Hawaiian Islands, she would produce heirs of unassailable lineage. He also married Ka`ahumanu, who had been betrothed to Kiwalaō.

In marrying Keōpūolani, Pai`ea Kamehameha also adopted her `aumakua, her family god, Kihawahine. From the time of his marriage to Keopuolani, Kamehameha I carried the image of Kihawahine with him. He credited her with his victories in uniting the islands of Hawai`i, and erected her image dressed in deep saffron and light yellow kapa at several Maui and Hawai’i heiau.

In 1783, an incident occurred which would affect all Hawai`i in later years. Pai`ea Kamehameha had just lost a battle with the warriors of Hilo, then in its 7th generation of rule by the powerful `I family which also had close kinship ties with Puna and Ka`ū.

After retreating, Pai`ea Kamehameha decided to make a stealth attack on Hilo to capture victims for sacrifice. Not finding what he was seeking in Hilo, he continued sailing along the coast to Pāpa`i, in Puna. There, he sighted a group of fishermen and their families. As soon as the people onshore realized it was a war canoe, they ran inland. As his men beached the canoe, he jumped out and gave chase, leaving his men behind. As he chased the commoners, his foot slipped into a crack in the lava and he was trapped. One of the fishermen ran back and hit him over the head with a canoe paddle, stunning him and breaking the paddle. The fishermen and their families escaped.

To be overcome by commoners was a humiliating thing for a ranking chief and warrior, and his men would be blamed for not guarding him properly. Pai`ea Kamehameha tried to keep the incident quiet and protect his companions, but his steersman was killed by the other chiefs, who felt he had failed in his duty. The incident remained in Pai`ea Kamehameha’s mind.

After a decade of warfare, Pai`ea Kamehameha engaged his last major Hawai`i Island rival, Keōua Kūkahau`ula, a younger brother of Kiwalaō who was in the successive line, in two major battles. In the second, Keōua Kūkahao`ula lost much of his army in a volcanic eruption. These were the last major battles fought with indigenous weapons.

Between battles, Pai`ea Kamehameha had captured and traded for European weaponry. He became the first Hawaiian chief to use guns and cannons against Hawaiian people. Other chiefs quickly followed his example.

Pai`ea Kamehameha had been building a great war temple in his home district of Kohala, and completed it in 1791. Under diplomatic guise, he invited Keōua Kūkahao`ula to the consecration. Keōua Kūkahao`ula was killed and offered as the consecratory sacrifice. This action consolidated Pa`ieaʻs rule of Kohala, Kona, and Ka`ū.

Hilo chiefs had a long-time relationship with Ka`ū chiefs through alliance and intermarriage. Ululani, Ali`i Nui (High Chief) of Hilo, had been married to the Ka`ū ali`i Keawemauhili, half brother to the late Kalaniopu`u. After his death she married another Ka`ū ali`i of the same lineage, Keaweaheulu Kaluaʻapana.

Keaweaheulu Kaluaʻapana, however, was a high-ranking advisor to Pai`ea Kamehameha. Well versed in court intrigue, it was he who had been the bearer of the invitation to Keōua Kūkahao`ula which resulted in the latter’s death and sacrifice. Pai`ea Kamehameha now had a supremely loyal infiltrator with the ear of Hiloʻs Ali`i Nui.

Hilo

The great Polynesian navigator and culture hero Hilo is said to have been one of the discoverers of Hawai`i, and so the fertile district of Hilo was granted him and named in his honor.

“Hilo” also means to twist fibers into a double helix, as when making rope, string, or thread. It also is the name of the first visible moon of the month, as the thin twist of moon looks like a piece of thread, and it is the name for the thin twisted thread of light that appears briefly on the ocean horizon just at dawn.

Hilo has been populated since ancient times. Many people lived above Hilo One, from where the police station now stands to the medical center, and farmed the fertile lowlands. The area where the Wailoa Art Center and the Tsunami memorial now stand is Piopio, an exceptionally fertile area on which the royal compound for the chiefs of Hilo was built. Pai`ea Kamehamehaʻs own father, Keoua Kupuapāikalani, spent his final days and died there. The area where today’s soccer fields are now was covered with taro fields.

The shoreline portion of Hilo is divided into three areas: Hilo Palikū–the area fronted by the sea cliffs, Hilo One–reaching from the Wailuku River to the Wailoa River, and Hilo Hanakahi–named for the beloved chief Hanakahi whose reign was marked by peace and prosperity.

Much of the prosperity of Hilo Hanakahi derived from its position on the windward side of the island, combined with the rich flood plain of Waiākea (“broad water”), where taro could be cultivated in abundance.

Many heiau (temples) attested to the prosperity of Hilo. Pinao Heiau, mauka in Pi`ihonua, was where Pai`ea had overturned the Naha stone. Just back from the northern bank of the Wailuku River was Kanoa Heiau. Kaipalaoa (Sea Whale) Heiau sat on the southern banks. The village of Kaipalaoa was major trade center, where people from Hilo Palikū and the northern districts met the people of the southern portions of Hilo and Puna.

Makai of Piopio, approximately where Lili`uokalani Park is today, was the luakini heiau (temple of human sacrifice) for Hilo. Just offshore in the bay a pu`uhonua (place of refuge) occupied Moku Ola.

Pai`ea Kamehameha was familiar with the Hilo district from his youth. Kaipalaoa, across the Wailuku River from Pu`u`eo was a favorite surfing area, and at least eight excellent breaks could be found from Pu`u`eo to Waiākea.

Also, just a few years before the arrival of Capt. James Cook, Pai`ea was taken to Pinao Heiau in Pi`ihonua, where he overturned the Pōhaku Naha (Naha Stone), a foundation stone of ancient times, indicating he would fulfill the prophecy of a chief who would overturn the old order of Hawai`i.

He continued to visit Kaipalaoa throughout the years. On one visit, he decided to travel to Koloʻiki, the area now known as Reedʻs Island, on personal business, and ordered his bodyguard to stay behind to guard his canoe. He was gone far longer than expected, and the men became concerned and discussed heading mauka (inland) to see if their chief needed their aid. The incoming tide, however, would raise the canoe while they were gone, and it would float away. One of the men suggested they make ropes to secure the canoe to the nearby coconut trees. He instructed the others on how to gather dry lā`ī (tī leaves), soak them in the sea water, and then twist them into strong ropes in the method known as “hilo.” They did this, and once the canoe was secured, they headed mauka to aid their chief. They soon met him, safe and sound, walking back to the canoe. Angry that they had not stayed with the canoe, he questioned them as to how they had assured its safety. They explained they had made a rope of lā`ī and secured it to the nearby coconut trees. The chief expressed surprise, as only people from Waipi`o practiced the hilo style of rope making. The man who had taught them explained that he was, indeed, from Waipi`o. To commemorate the event, Pai`iea Kamehameha re-named the village “Hilo.”

Hilo was a wealthy district with easy access to fresh water, the largest rivers on the island, and abundant forest resources. Koa, needed for building large canoes, hau, and niu, needed for rope making, taro, needed for carbohydrates to feed large numbers of people, and fishponds needed to provide protein and sea vegetables, were all in abundance in Hilo. Personally, Pai`ea Kamehameha was especially fond of the young mullet from the Wailoa pond.

With one of his closest advisors, Keaweaheulu Kaluaʻapana, married to the Ali`i Nui of Hilo, the high chiefess Ululani, Kamehameha had easy access to its resources.

In 1794, he decided to move his base of operations to Hilo, and celebrated that yearʻs Makahiki, the Hawaiian New Year and a major religious observance, at Moku Ola.

By 1795, Pai`ea Kamehameha had subjugated Hilo, Puna, and Ka`ū on Hawai`i, as well as the remaining southern Hawaiian islands: Maui, Moloka`i, Lāna`i, and O`ahu. The continued independence of the northern islands, Kauai and Ni`ihau which were ruled by Ali`i Nui Kaumuali`i, rankled him and he decided to do whatever it took to overwhelm Kaumuali`iʻs forces. He moved to the district of Hilo to build his Peleleu fleet, the largest navy the Pacific Ocean had known.

Keaweaheulu Kaluaʻapana was from a family with traditional ties to the Hilo chiefs, but in this case his loyalty lay with the Kohala chief, Pai`ea Kamehameha. With his chief now privy to all the strengths and weaknesses of Hilo, Ululani had had a choice of leading peaceful agrarian Hilo in a fight against the largest, best trained, and most heavily armed military force Hawai`i had ever known, or save her people’s lives by graciously playing hostess to the invading forces.

Heavy taxes were levied on the people of Hilo to provide food for the many artisans, shipwrights, rope makers, weavers, kahuna, and all who were needed to build the great broad canoes of the fleet, as well as the warriors who would man them.

The people of Hilo also paid taxes of koa logs, felled and dragged down the slopes from Haili, Mokaulele, and Kaūmana to the broad black sand beach of Hilo One. When complete, the flotilla was so large that the first wave of the invasion was landing at Lāhaina, Maui before the last canoes were launched from the sands of Hilo – a distance of about 150 miles by sea.

While he was living in Hilo to oversee the building of his fleet, some of Pai`ea Kamehamehaʻs wives joined him. Keōpūolani became pregnant, and it was his wish that the child be born at Kukaniloko on O`ahu, a sacred birth center. However, she was too ill to travel, and so in 1797 Liholiho, the royal heir, was born in Hilo.

It was at this time that Pai`ea Kamehameha recalled the incident with the fisherman of Pāpa`i. He had all of the people of Hilo and Puna questioned as to the location of the man. At last the fisherman was brought before him. Everyone was convinced the man would be executed. Instead, Pai`ea Kamehameha asked his forgiveness. The chief then proclaimed Hawai`iʻs first national law:

Kānāwai Māmalahoe 

E nā kānaka,
E mālama ‘oukou i ke akua
A e mālama ho‘i ke kanaka nui a me kanaka iki;
E hele ka ‘elemakule, ka luahine, a me ke kama
A moe i ke ala
‘A‘ohe mea nāna e ho‘opilikia.
Hewa nō, make.

 Law of the Splintered Paddle

Oh people,
Honor thy god;
respect alike [the rights of] people both great and humble;
May everyone, from the old men and women to the children
Be free to go forth and lie in the road (i.e. by the roadside or pathway)
Without fear of harm.
Break this law, and die.

Until that time, laws were not applied consistently, but at the whim of the ali`i or kahuna. Common people were essentially the property of the chiefs. With the proclamation of the Kānāwai Māmalahoe, Hawai`i counteracted centuries of royal prerogative with a law of human rights. In honor of the fishermanʻs attempt to defend himself, the law was named for the paddle which had been splintered over the chiefʻs head. To this day, the main road (known in English as the Belt Highway) around Hawai`i Island and runs more or less where the original royal road once lay, is named the Māmalahoa Highway.

In 1801, Hualalai, on the other side of the island, erupted. Pai`ea Kamehamehaʻs kahuna advised that he had not been generous enough with offerings to Pele, and that she wanted to eat the breadfruit in his orchards and the sweet fish in his ponds. He asked the kahuna to take additional offerings, but the kahuna stated that as the offence was the chiefʻs, the chief needed to go. He told the kahuna that if Pele was so angry, it was likely he would be killed. His two most prominent wives, Keōpūolani and Ka`ahumanu, said that if he were to die, they would be with him and die at his side. Ululani, the ali`i nui of Hilo, was related to Pele. As a member of the Pele clan, when her first child died in infancy the baby was taken to Pele to be deified and become an `aumakua. Ululani offered to go with the party to appeal to her child to intercede for them. At the flow, an unusual flame was seen dancing at the edge of the lava closest to them. The kahuna stated that this was Ululaniʻs child. The chiefesses followed Pai`ea Kamehameha in making offerings, but the eruption continued until he cut off his hair and cast it into the flow, which then stopped.

Shortly after the eruption, the Peleleu fleet was ready. “Peleleu” translates to English as “broad.” Compared to traditional Hawaiian war canoes, these were built short and broad with reinforced superstructure to accommodate European weaponry and rigging.

Since meeting Westerners, Kamehameha had astutely traded for goods to reinforce his social status and his military capability. By the time the 800 canoe Peleleu Fleet was complete he had amassed 14 cannon ranging from three to six pounders, 40 swivels, 6 mortars, and 600 muskets.

Shortly after returning from Hualalaiʻs cooling eruption, Pai`ea Kamehameha ordered the Peleleu Fleet to set sail for Maui

While the Peleleu Fleet was being constructed in Hilo, in his home district of Kohala, Pai`ea Kamehameha had ordered the establishment of a shipyard complete with forges and blacksmiths. There, Hawaiian and haole (foreign) shipwrights constructed between 20 and 30 European style vessels of between 20 and 25 ton burthen. As the Peleleu Fleet reached the Alenuihāhā Channel the western-style ships were launched. In 1802, the massive fleet landed at Maui for staging. After a year of sea trials, training, and staging, the fleet, with nearly 8,000 trained warrior-seamen launched for O`ahu.

Final staging would be held on O`ahu. Pai`ea Kamehameha planned to throw the entire might of his military forces against Kaumuali`i, the Ali`i Nui of Kauai and Ni`ihau, the last remaining independent ruling chief in the Hawaiian Islands.

In 1804, while staging the fleet on O`ahu, disaster struck, and Pai`ea Kamehamehaʻs forces were devastated by cholera. The plan to invade Kauai was abandoned.

At last, in 1809, fearing that as separate kingdoms the islands would be overwhelmed by the larger and aggressively expanding Western nations, Kaumuali`i traveled to O`ahu to formally join the northern islands to the southern as a tributary kingdom. The entire chain was now one nation under Pai`ea Kamehameha.

Pai`ea Kamehameha maintained his seat of government on O`ahu for the next three years, but in 1812 decided to return to the island of his birth. Settling at Kamakahonu in Kailua-Kona, he ruled over his kingdom. He turned his skills in managing warfare to managing diplomatic affairs.

Timeline

Appox 1758 – Pai`ea born, taken to Waipi`o

Approx 1760 – Pai`eaʻs father dies in Hilo

Approx 1763 – Pai`ea taken to court of Kalaniopu`u at Kailua, Hawai`i.

Approx 1770 – Pai`ea overturns Pōhaku Naha

1779 – Pai`ea meets Capt. James Cook

1781 – Kalaniopu`u dies

1782 – Pai`ea engages in open rebellion

1783 – Fishermen attacked

1792 – Pu`ukohola Heiau consecrated with body of Keōuakū`ahu`ula

1794 – Pai`ea Kamehameha celebrates Makahiki at Moku Ola, Hilo. Hilo begins to function as base of operations

1796 – Pai`ea Kamehameha moves full-time to Hilo, starts building Peleleu Fleet

1797 – Keōpūolani gives birth in Hilo to Pai`ea Kamehameha’s highest ranking son,  Liholiho (Kamehameha II)

1797 – Kānāwai Māmalahoe proclaimed

1801 – Hualalai erupts, Pai`ea Kamehameha, his wives, and Hilo Ali`i Ululani travel to the eruption to make offerings

1802 – Peleleu fleet sails for Maui

1804 – Plans to invade Kauai abandoned

1809 – Kaumuali`i and Kamehameha unite their kingdoms

1812 – Kamehameha returns to Moku Hawai`i

1819 – Pai`ea Kamehameha dies, Liholiho becomes Mō`ī