Floral Adornments of Hawaiʻi

Above, Kili Redondo (left) and Leinani Lozi (right), oli (chant) at the opening of the 2023 Hilo Lei Day Festival at Kalākaua Park. Photo by Rita French

Lei, the lovely garlands of Hawaiʻi, are made of many different materials, from shells to ivory, to flowers, to feathers – so many things can be crafted into beautiful adornments.

These same techniques can be used to craft other types of adornments as well.

A garland is a lei.

Worn around the neck, open or closed, it is a lei ʻāʻī – a neck lei.

Lei Day 2023, Kalākaua Park
Photo by Rita French

Worn on the head, it is a lei poʻo – a head lei.

Leinani Lozi wears on her head a lei poʻo of kupukupu (native sword fern) in the hili style. Around her neck she wears a lei lāʻī in the hilo style.
Photo by Rita French

Worn on a hat, it is a lei pāpale – a hat lei.

Leinaʻala Lassiter wears a lei pāpale (hat lei) of loke (rose) and lei ʻāʻī of pua kiele (gardenia) in the kui style as she MCs the 2023 Hilo Lei Day Festival at Kalākaua Park.
Photo by Rita French

A short garland worn on the wrist or ankle is a kūpeʻe.

Marcia Timboy, a member of the Hilo Lei Day Festival Board of Directors, show her kūpeʻe lima (bracelet) of fern, liko, and other foliage. Around her neck she wears a lei pūpū, a shell lei ʻāʻī.
Photo by Leilehua Yuen

An unidentified student wears a kūpeʻe wāwae (anklet) of lau kukui (kukui leaf).
Photo by Leilehua Yuen

A short garland or a floral arrangement worn in the hair or as a boutonnière is a wehi, wēwehi, or wehiwehi.

Recently we have been hearing that some people are claiming wēwehi are called “koko” or “coco” in Hawaiian. This is not true. “Koko” means “blood” in Hawaiian. “Kōkō” is a carrying net. “Kokō” is to crow or cackle. “Coco” is not a Hawaiian word.

Photo by Leilehua Yuen

There are many ways to craft a lei or a wēwehi. The two main ways of creating a lei are to kui lei (to sew or string a lei), and to haku lei (to braid, weave, or compile/fabricate a lei). This can be confusing because haku has several definitions, and is both a noun and a verb.

You can learn more about lei at LeiDay.org

ʻWhat did Queen Emma of Hawaiʻi look like?

ʻ Emalani in Pictures – A work in progress

Here I am sorting my digital collection of ʻEmalani images, trying to arrange them chronologically, to find provenance of them all, and to start including a little history.

With Dr. & Mrs. Rooke. Original photo at the Bishop Museum.
https://digitalarchives.hawaii.gov/item/ark:70111/1z99

Emma and Alexander Liholiho were married on June 19, 1856
Alekanetero ʻIolani Kalanikualiholiho Maka o ʻIouli Kūnuiākea o Kūkāʻilimoku (Kamehameha IV)
and
Queen Emma Kalanikaumakaʻamano Kaleleonālani Naʻea Rooke 

1862 image by Henry L Chase , Front Street, Honolulu

1865

Photograph by Camille Silvy, London
Studio at 38 Porcester Terrace
London
Carte-de-visite depicting a full-length portrait of Emma Kalanikaumakaʻamano Kaleleonālani Naʻea Rooke, then Queen Dowager of the Kingdom of Hawaii. She is standing and faces three-quarters left. Her hands are together in front of her, left hand over right. She is wearing a Western style dress, with a light coloured headdress and a veil. On the left of the photograph stands a table with books on it. A curtain is hanging behind the table.
Provenance: From an album of ‘Royal Portraits’ compiled by Queen Victoria
Royal Collection Trust

1866

Emma Gardener collection (?) dated 1865, however Queen Emma did not arrive in New York until 1866

After her European tour, Queen Emma arrived in New York in August of 1866. This image is on paper produced by Edward and Henry T. Anthony & Co

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Queen_Emma_of_Hawaii,c._1859%28colored%29.jpg

After her European tour, Queen Emma arrived in New York in August of 1866. This image was published by Edward and Henry T. Anthony & Co
Identified as a Henry L. Chase image.

Carte de Visite by Bradley and Rutholfson, San Francisco, October 1866.
This is the image most commonly mis-identified as Mary Ellen Pleasant, due to it being used by Helen Holdredge in her book on Mrs. Pleasant.

Carte de visite of Queen Emma which has been altered and identified as Mary Ellen Pleasant.
What I think is especially charming about how she signed this carte de visite: “On sea,” which is how we would say it in Hawaiian. She then corrected it to “at sea,” the English phrasing.
USS Vanderbilt

186?

Although this image is sometimes identified as the wedding of ʻEmalani and Liholiho, Kamehameha IV, it is not. The image is a montage of several members of the Hawaiian royalty based on their photos. While many of their lifetimes did overlap, this is not an accurate representation of a specific moment in time. The image of ʻEmalani is based on a photo of her wearing widow’s weeds, therefore the image of her is post-1863, the year her husband died. In it, she is wearing the same gown as in the carte de visite below. The images must, therefore, be at least a year prior to 1870.

1871

1871
by Henry L. Chase
https://digitalarchives.hawaii.gov/item/ark:70111/1z8N

1880

ʻEmalani was a renowned horsewoman. In this image she is wearing an English-style riding habit accented in the inimitable Hawaiian style.
1880
https://digitalarchives.hawaii.gov/item/ark:70111/1Dw0

This stately image was made by Andreas Avelino Montano, a Colombian from California. He came to Hawaii and was active from 1876 to 1883 as a photographer and portrait painters for Queen Emma and other fashionable aliis. He had a skill for portraying Hawaiian women. His studio at 87 Fort Street in Honolulu became known as Hale Paʻikiʻi (photographer house). He tutored the painter Charles Furneaux. He married Mary Jane Fayerweather, a quarter Hawaiian and three quarter Caucasian woman, sister of Julia Fayerweather Afong, and widow of Benoni R. Davidson. Although she was five years his senior they had four children: Emma, Rose, Maggie and Harry. He later retired photography and became a rancher.

1883

https://jenikirbyhistory.getarchive.net/amp/media/queen-emma-of-hawaii-photograph-by-h-l-chase-pp-96-4-008-174482

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Henry_L._Chase

https://www.alexautographs.com/auction-lot/queen-emma-of-hawaii-s-annotated-photograph-album_6567D96713

https://www.rrauction.com/auctions/lot-detail/345998106526136-queen-emma-of-hawaii-signed-photograph/?cat=322

Esthetic of Hawaiian Art

In some ways, the traditional Hawaiian esthetic reminds one of the Art Nouveau movement. Both Hawaiian and Art Nouveau designers believed that all the arts should work in harmony to create a  Gesamtkunstwerk, a “total work,” in which form, function, line, pattern, color and texture were ideally melded together into a harmonious expression. Traditional Hawaiian culture takes this esthetic a step farther, insisting that the spiritual qualities of the work also be in harmony with its tangible expression.

Items from skirts, to water gourds, to homes, to canoes were conformed to this esthetic before their physical creation, with appropriate prayer and sacrifice made from the first impulse of creation.

For example, the creation of a water gourd began well before the plant was harvested – with the spiritual cleansing and filling of the farmer as he prepared his digging stick to loosen the soil. Each phase, from preparing the ground, to planting the seeds, to guarding the crop, to harvest, to decorating, to final cleansing had to be carefully observed. “What use,” the traditionalist thinks, “to have a beautiful object if it is spiritually unclean?”

And how much more pleasurable to have a beautiful gourd which delights the eye which sees it, and the hand which touches it?

Above is an ipu pāwehe, a modern gourd I cured in the manner of the “tattooed gourds of Kauai.” Every detail to make it a fine water gourd was attended to. Even the shell stopper was selected because the pattern on the shell resembles the pattern I incised and dyed into the rind.